V-Brakes
-
The trick to tuning V-brakes (once the cable is pulled through
the proper amount) is in setting the tension screws at the
base of each brake arm. If one brake arm is lying too close
to the rim or doesn't seem to want to move as soon as the
other, then it needs more spring tension to pull it away from
the rim. Tighten the small screw at the base of the arm (clockwise)
until both arms begin to move at the same time when pulling
on the corresponding brake lever. If you find that you've
used up all the available adjustment then you may need to
loosen the tension screw on the opposite arm slightly. It's
really quite simple and convenient to learn this trick as
the brakes will need some occasional tuning, especially as
the cables stretch during break-in period. Naturally, cable
tensioning is also important here, so use barrel adjusters
(on the brake levers) to take the slack out of the brake cable
before tuning spring tension.
It
is also important to set brake pads properly in relation to
rims. Pads shoul be lined up to make full contact w/ the rim
sidewall... to high and they scrub the tire... to low and
they miss some or all of the sidewall. It will also help reduce
brake squeal if toe-in is set to allow trailing edge of pads
to cantact rims slightly before the leading edge does.
Disc
Brakes - for most disc
brakes (Avid, Hayes, Tektro, and most Shimano the key to tuning
is caliper alignment. On mechanical brakes it is also important
to set cable tension correctly and hydraulics will require
bleeding of the lines if air bubbles in the system creat a
"mushy" feel. Please see manufacturers instructions
for more info on this. To align calipers use the following
steps:
